Gary Danko, San Francisco

Gary Danko is rated by foodies as San Francisco's top restaurant. I was impressed by both the food and the service. The sommelier had an extensive knowledge of the restaurant's excellent wine list, and did a great job of appeasing me after I gave him questionable guidance on what I was in the mood for.  Evidence: I started with a '99 red Burgundy and ended up with an '01 California Cab. I guess I wasn't in touch with my wine feelings that night. In any case, the menu was a tasting menu that I'd characterize as French/California fusion, and while undaring in places, before we were done we had gone through foie gras, duck pate and fig salad, scallops, risotto, duck breast, etc.; I thought that certain of the dishes were great, others good but prosaic. Nevertheless, for $150/head it's among the best food in the West, and I rated it a 9.5. (9.5)  www.garydanko.com